Practically every bush or tree that is planted for decorative purposes or for obtaining products requires pruning, which must be done according to certain rules, otherwise there will be more harm than good. Today we will talk about the rules for pruning bushes and trees, discuss the need for such actions, and also describe in detail the entire process.
Why do pruning
To begin with, pruning trees and shrubs is carried out not only in spring, but also in summer / autumn, respectively, depending on the season, the purpose of pruning varies.
Formative pruning. Such actions are carried out both to form the crown of a tree or shrub to create the desired shape, and to obtain symmetry so that the crop ripens evenly on all branches without overloading a separate part of the plant.
To adjust the fruiting. It is carried out exclusively for crops that yield. The point is to adjust the period of fruiting and frequency.
To improve lighting. The fact is that the upper branches may be so thickened that the lower branches will not receive light at all, because of which the products will begin to ripen at different times and have a different quality. Carried out to increase yields.
Did you know? Using pruning and correctly forming the crown, you can grow bonsai from hawthorn, which will not yield to miniature Japanese trees. For bonsai spend a number of pruning, nip, and also use the frame and ligature.Rejuvenating and sanitary. In the first case is carried out in order to suspend the aging of the tree. Cutting off the old shoots, you are forcing the plant to grow new, young. In the second case, we remove damaged, dry and diseased branches, so that the tree does not suffer from diseases and pests, as well as to clear the crown and improve the lighting of the lower shoots.
It turns out that each fork is needed in a certain situation, and to solve all the problems of a plant for one pruning is obtained only in rare cases. At the same time, it is necessary to cut off not only in time, but also correctly, otherwise you will “substitute” your culture and it will be immediately struck by various diseases and pests.You will probably be interested to read about the correct pruning of such trees and shrubs as: apple, pear, cherry, cherry, plum, apricot, peach, grape, raspberry, currant, gooseberry.
Receptions for beginners
Next, we will discuss cutting techniques that will help inexperienced gardeners to correctly remove unwanted shoots and form a crown.
Shortening branches
The process is to remove annual growths to enhance growth and stimulate the development of the kidneys, which are located up to the cut. Also, the branches after shortening thicken, which has a positive effect on productivity (thicker branches withstand the weight of fruits better and suffer less from gusts of wind). During shortening, we remove 1/5 or 1/4 (weak shortening), but not from the whole branch, but from the annual increase. That is, from the length that the branch grew over the year.
Depending on the strength of trimming, distinguish weak, medium (1/3 length) and strong (1/2). Now let's talk about anti-aging pruning, when a significant part of the shoot is removed.
If a 2-3-year growth is removed, then it is considered light embossing, the removal of 3-4-year-old wood is rejuvenation, and if most skeletal shoots are cut off - a strong rejuvenation.
Important! A strong rejuvenation is carried out very rarely, in case of severe damage to the shoots or for a radical reduction in the size of the crown.
Perennial branches removal
Removal of perennial shoots should be carried out not only in order to remove diseased or dry branches, but also for thinning the crown or its formation.
It is possible to cut off branches both round and partially removing shoots on one side. You can also remove the center conductor to limit growth, however this is done after the formation of the plant.
Important! To conduct a similar pruning need after the complete formation of the plant. In the first years after landing, removal cannot be performed.
Ring removal helps to thin the crown around the circumference, as well as reduce the overall load, give light to the lower branches and improve the delivery of nutrients in the aerial parts.Partial removal helps to compensate for the development of a tree, when more sprouts develop on one side than on the other. The resulting symmetry gives the best stability, and during fruiting such a tree will not “collapse” to one side.
Features of the formation of the pyramidal and weeping crown
Let's start with the fact that the formation of the crown should be dealt with immediately after planting, and not when it has already been formed and you can only adjust the crown. Let's start with the pyramidal crown.
Such a crown has several tiers, each of which develops up to 5 skeletal branches that extend from the trunk almost at a right angle. The first formative pruning is carried out immediately after planting.
We need to cut the central stem to the bud, which will be opposite to the inclination of the tree. Next, cut off the shoots, forming longlines. Strong shoots cut low, weak - high. Left skeletal branches need to be shortened by 2 times.
Next, monitor the growth and carry out the second pruning, forming the second tier. Skeletal branches of the second tier should be located above the intervals of the first.
Important! Intervals between tiers - 50 cm
After the second tier, the rest are laid, so that each subsequent tier has shorter skeletal branches than the previous one. After all the manipulations, you get a crown in the form of a pyramid, which is perfectly illuminated by sunlight and is able to give a good harvest.If you want to get a non-tiered pyramidal crown, then do not lay skeletal ramifications and do not cut overgrown thin branches.
Weeping crown. It is formed both with the help of the correct pruning and with the use of various stretch. First we need to cut the trunk to the lower skeletal branches.
Next, shorten the skeletal branches by half so that during the growth small branches are directed downwards. We need to remove the lower buds and cut off all the shoots that grow up.
If you need to form a large weeping crown, then leave several skeletal branches and, after the initial pruning, near the cut of the skeletal shoot, leave one branch that will grow upwards. It also needs to be cut periodically to achieve compaction and release into a new skeletal branch.
You can also use stretch, but you can not calculate the force and break the shoots. Moreover, the stretch marks are applied to a 3-4 year old tree, otherwise the branches will precisely “fold” in half. 
Did you know? With the help of vaccinations, you can create an amazing weeping crown or a multi-tiered "fountain" into which even a small stump can be turned.
Anti-aging pruning fruit, how to replace the crown of old wood
Now let's discuss the pruning of fruit trees for beginners with the correct replacement of the old crown to increase yields or to obtain a beautiful aesthetic appearance.
In one go
Pruning is carried out in order to remove diseased damaged wood at the first fork. Depending on the height of the tree, the cut is carried out 60-150 cm from the ground, so that there are any shoots or buds on the left above-ground part. Otherwise, the tree will be very hard to re-build the whole green mass.
The cut should be smooth. On the wood below the cut should not be cracks, fungus or any holes. You should have something like this: a high stump, from which sprouts are coming. Further, as overgrowth grows, they can be formed into a pyramidal crown with the help of stretch. 
As a result, in one approach you will cut old wood and, if everything goes as it should, you will get a young tree with good fruit bearing after several years. The point is not only in the aboveground part, but in a good root system, which takes up a small area and will give an impetus to growth.
Deletion in 2 steps
After a few decades, many garden crops grow to such a height that the crop cannot be harvested, and the lower shoots die due to the thickening of the crown, which is also very difficult to thin out. Therefore, many gardeners decide to replace the crown in 2 stages, which we will talk about.
In the first year, most of the skeletal shoots on the south side are cut off, greatly shortening the small branches that form in the right direction. After 2-3 years, the same manipulations are carried out with the northern side of the tree, after which they receive an updated crown, which gives more available for picking fruits. 
The point is that in the process of formation you will receive a harvest each year.
Important! Shtamb must be healthy, otherwise pruning will not work.
Pros and cons of spring pruning
It's time to talk about the pros and cons of pruning fruit shrubs and trees in the spring.
Pros:
- Cuts are quickly tightened due to good sap flow.
- Comfortable conditions.
- You can remove both dry and diseased branches, and frozen until the moment when the tree begins to give all its strength to the formation of green mass.
Learn how to choose a garden pruner.Minuses:
- It is necessary to guess the exact moment for the wounds to heal quickly.
- Terms of pruning various plants vary, which makes it impossible to "process" the whole garden at once.
- Spring pruning is not suitable for plants that form flower buds on last year's shoots.
This concludes the discussion on the topic of pruning various garden trees and shrubs. It should be understood that the formation of the crown should be carried out only in accordance with the rules, the violation of which will lead to deformation of the aerial parts and various diseases. Try to avoid mistakes that are difficult to fix later.
